Sonoran Sipping: A Chat with a Founder of One of Mexico’s Most Unique Spirits

Sure, you’ve heard of tequila and mezcal. You’ve probably even had quite a few cocktails that use one of these spirits as a base. But did you know that there’s another agave-based liquor that promises just as delicious a sip as its brethren? Bacanora, like other spirits made in Mexico, is made using agave and distilled to produce a unique, earthy flavor that’s great for sipping over ice or mixed into a cocktail. Unlike both tequila and mezcal, however, this spirit is not as well-known due to Mexican laws that made its production illegal for over seven decades. Rodrigo Bojorquez, a third generation rancher and farmer is now a first generation distiller; a man whose mission is not only to craft an incomparable bacanora, but also help to educate and proliferate the knowledge and accessibility to the spirit. We spoke to Bojorquez about the differences between bacanora and other agave-based spirits, the best ways to enjoy it, and the inspiration behind his company, Kilinga Bacanora.

How does bacanora differ from tequila and mezcal?

Bacanora, tequila, and mezcal are all agave-based spirits, but they have distinct differences that make each one unique. Bacanora is produced exclusively in the state of Sonora, Mexico, using only Agave Angustifolia Pacifica. This agave has uniquely adapted to the Sonoran terrain and climate, situated between the Sierra Madre mountains and the sea.

In terms of production, bacanora involves slow-cooking the agave piñas in underground ovens for several days using native mesquite wood. This method imparts a subtle smokiness and allows the agave to express its full range of flavors. After cooking, we shred the agave and ferment it before double distillation.

Tequila is made primarily in Jalisco from Blue Weber Agave and is usually cooked in industrial autoclave ovens or diffusers, which don’t impart much flavor. Mezcal, produced in states like Oaxaca, can use multiple varieties of agave and typically roasts the agave in underground pits, giving it a more pronounced smoky flavor.

Bacanora offers a unique flavor profile that’s less smoky than mezcal but more complex and mineral-rich than tequila. The extreme temperature changes in Sonora and the agave’s adaptation to this environment contribute to bacanora’s distinctive taste.

Why do you think these other agave-based spirits are more well-known than bacanora?

The primary reason is due to historical and regulatory factors. They have both been on the market without any restrictions a lot longer than Bacanora has. In fact, Bacanora was prohibited in Sonora for over 77 years, from the early 1900s until 1992, due to local prohibition laws imposed by the governor at the time. This forced Bacanora production underground, limiting its exposure and preventing commercial development. Tequila and mezcal didn’t face such prohibitions and had the advantage of earlier commercialization and international marketing efforts. They benefited from significant investment, global distribution networks, and tourism in their regions, which helped elevate their profiles and receive access to government grants to incentivize the growth of both categories.

Bacanora’s relative obscurity is a result of its late legalization and the challenges in scaling up production after decades of prohibition. However, since its full legalization in 2000 and efforts like ours at Kilinga to introduce it to new markets, bacanora is gradually gaining the recognition it deserves.

What sets Kilinga apart from other bacanora producers?

Kilinga was created without the limitations that a long family tradition can bestow upon a distiller. We take a unique and meticulous approach to every aspect of production. Being a family-owned distillery, we control the entire process from seed to bottle on our own ranch, ensuring the highest quality and consistency in our spirits. We practice sustainable farming by hand-selecting agave seeds for their quality and vigor, and then nurturing them in our nursery before planting them in the fields. This commitment to regenerative farming reflects our deep care for the land that supports us.

So “new” is part of your recipe for success?

Unlike traditional methods passed down through generations, I began distilling without a set recipe, which allowed me the freedom to experiment and refine our process. This innovative approach makes each batch of Kilinga Bacanora truly one-of-a-kind. We combine traditional cooking methods with a modern understanding by slow-cooking our agave in bespoke volcanic stone and clay ovens fired with mesquite wood grown on our land. By researching the science and developing my own style of fermentation and distillation, we’ve perfected a spirit that’s both authentic and refined.

Is there a story behind the name?

Absolutely. “Kilinga” is named after my mother, La Señora Kilinga, who is the heart and soul of our family. Kilinga is my mother’s nickname. It came to be because when people saw her, they would refer to her as ‘Que Linda’. When asked, she thought that was her name, and mispronounced the Que Linda, for Kilinga. That stuck and has been my mother’s nickname ever since she was a little girl. Naming the brand after her is a tribute to her strength, warmth and the values she instilled in us. It’s rare to find spirit brands named after women, especially agave, and we take pride in honoring her legacy. The name embodies our commitment to family, tradition, and the personal touch we bring to our bacanora.

You currently have 4 products. Is there one you’d recommend for people who have never tried bacanora before? 

 For tequila and gin drinkers I would recommend Kilinga Silvestre. It’s floral, herbal, and fun to play with. For Scotch, bourbon, and aged tequila or rum drinkers, I would recommend Kilinga Reposado.

For those new to bacanora, I recommend starting with our Kilinga Blanco. Crafted from 10- to 12-year-old Agave Capon, this expression offers a smooth and approachable introduction. Its bright flavors and subtle complexity showcase the essence of our spirit without overwhelming the palate, allowing newcomers to appreciate the unique characteristics that set bacanora apart from other agave spirits.

Do you have plans to release more products in the future?

We are always exploring and experimenting. Since we’re not bound to a set recipe, we have the freedom to innovate based on each year’s harvest. This flexibility enables us to consider new expressions that highlight different aspects of the agave and the unique terroir of Sonora.

I’d assume that bacanora can be enjoyed in many of the same ways that its agave liquor counterparts are. Are there any unexpected ways people enjoy Kilinga?

Kilinga Bacanora is incredibly versatile and lends itself to both classic and innovative cocktails. One unique way is through the Verde Collins, a cocktail inspired by the Mexican dish Aguachile. This refreshing drink combines Kilinga Silvestre with fresh cucumber, citrus, green chili, and sea salt, accentuating the mineral notes of our bacanora. Another popular creation is the Hibisco Disco Margarita, a twist on the classic margarita that uses hibiscus to add floral notes, complementing the spirit’s complexity. The Sonoran Dry Martini is also a favorite, showcasing Kilinga’s elegance in a simple yet sophisticated cocktail.

How about just as a straight sipping drink?

I very much enjoy Kilinga neat, slightly chilled to fully appreciate its nuanced flavors. Additionally, our bacanora pairs wonderfully with food — especially seafood, poultry, and fresh salads — due to its minerality and subtle smokiness. These unique ways of enjoying Kilinga highlight its versatility and the depth it brings to various culinary experiences.

What do you see for the future of the brand?

We aim to introduce more people to the category, both in the United States and internationally, making it a priority to educate consumers about its unique qualities and rich history. We’ll continue practicing sustainable and regenerative farming to ensure the health of our land for future generations, as growth won’t come at the expense of quality or environmental responsibility. We’ll keep exploring new techniques and expressions. This includes potential new products that highlight different facets of the agave and the terroir.

Your pride in the product is self-evident.

Upholding the family values and traditions that define Kilinga remains central to us. We’ll honor our heritage while embracing modern opportunities. Supporting our local community in Sonora and contributing to the resurgence of bacanora’s popularity in Mexico are important goals. In essence, we envision Kilinga as a leading ambassador for bacanora, sharing this exceptional spirit with the world while staying true to who we are.