When you’re done drinking in the crowds (and maybe BB King’s famous spot) on Beale Street, head on over to Earnestine & Hazel’s for the real deal. No rip meant on Beale, but this is not a tourist joint. Locals pack it in (and are crowded outside smoking, too) and the blues I heard that night were as raw and real as a slice of red onion. Which brings me to the Soul Burger. I sat at the bar for a solid hour watching the hardest working line chef in Memphis knocking off burgers in rows of ten and more at a time. Nothing but the meat, cheese, pickle, onion and “soul sauce.” Every bite a satisfying, juice-down-the-chin pleasure. Set to live blues, this is the real deal.