Wander a couple of hours up the scenic winding roads of Hill Country northwest of San Antonio and after miles of scrub wilderness you will roll into the one-horse town of Leakey, Texas. Stop at Mama Chole’s. It’s lunchtime! I went simple with the cheese enchiladas. Beans, cheese, and raw onions rolled in corn tortillas and melted to perfection in a crazy flavorful sauce. Every last bite is a celebration of flavor. And those raw onions? Pure joy. It’s a small cafe, no fuss or muss. One table was filled with construction workers chowing down, another with women of seeming leisure that might have been a book club. Mama Chole’s is 100 miles from anywhere! Go.