When a meatball tastes like it just came out of a loving Nonna’s hands, into the oven and then straight  into your sauce, you’ve arrived. At this airy, light, buzzy Southend bistro, the staff is delightful and the whole menu beckons. Me, I may slurp the brothy sauce like soup. It’s that simple, yet piquant. And fresh-made bucatini is always my best friend.