We like off-season. The tourists have gone home. The natives are friendly. And you feel like you’ve happened upon something special when you find that local place that’s doing it just right! Like this spring roll, which by New York or Bangkok standards is not exactly what I envisioned, and yet what a pleasant surprise. The shrimp was abundant and fresh, the surrounding rice noodles an excellent accompaniment, and the melange of veggies made every bite as refreshing as a great salad. All wrapped up in a manageable rice paper package.