You’d think it’s difficult for food to compete with the 5-star fountain view at Lago by Julian Serrano, plunked squarely in front of the dancing fountain show at The Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas. Short of Brad Pitt and George Clooney serving your martini, you’d be right. However, this meal exceeded expectations, and when you book a fountain-view table, you already know what those are. Enter the hamachi. Tender like butter, swimming in an oily sauce of umami heaven. And those little bits of citrus and caper? File under: Why didn’t I think of that! I guess that’s what makes a chef a chef. Perfection! And the water show was pretty darned good, too.