I’m always amused by the judges’ reactions on AGT when a contestant sings a Whitney Houston song. It will need to be really really good, and then it must improve upon the original. That’s my reaction when I see a menu item that promises to improve on a classic. Lots of terrific, but better? Rare, and it wasn’t what I expected when I ordered “Gravlox” early one morning at the Counter Culture cafe. Wow! The bagel is swapped out for baguette. The capers are there, but instead of tomatoes and onions, it’s pickled cucumbers and Serrano peppers, bringing both heat and acidity. Cream cheese is subbed with dill crema, a perfect foil to the heat. It’s a rich dish; the texture of the baguette is solid, but does not feel heavy. It’s easy to imagine Simon Cowell giving an enthusiastic thumb’s up to this one.