“Do you like smoked fish dips?” With that simple question, a server might lure you into trying an appetizer that sounds and looks bizarre. It’s great though, and way different than the sturgeon your grandma served with bagels on Sunday morning. Chef-owner John Tesar’s version starts with a whole sturgeon from California’s Passmore Ranch. His team smokes it with dill, parsley and chives. When that’s done, he folds the fish into gelatin so it looks like the head cheese you see in deli cases. He plates a slab with clear cubes of dashi broth and dill crème fraiche. A dollop of sturgeon roe goes on top, and the dish is brought to the table under glass and surrounded by applewood smoke. The aroma wafts up as the dome is removed.